Toolbox Giftbasket

Toolbox Giftbasket

for

Him or Her

    Enlarge this design to whatever size you need.The length can be adjusted to however long you need. I recommend recessing the dowel handle or even drilling a hole all the way through for the dowel. Then hold in place with screws and or glue. Make sure you use the appropriate length screws and glue for the bottom and sides. Sand the sides of the project so that you can stain the wood afterward, but painting or decorating the box would probably also work. 

    Once you're finished with the project all you have left to do is to fill it with your favorite goodies for your favorite person and you will have a gift they will not soon forget. I love this project because it is such a versatile gift that can be given to him or her. It leaves them with something to use after they have consumed the goodies inside and could be used as a toolbox or even a planter for the front porch.

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Contest winner

Congratulations to Lisa Hess for being the month of May Nevada crafter contest winner.

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Contest for Nevada Crafter month of May

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FREE Natural DIY Fiber Filling and Batting

I've been meaning to do this story for some time, as it actually has quite the history here in Fallon, Nevada. 

Milkweed, October 2015

    During World War II Japan cut off our supply of fiber fill (kapok) that was being used for making life vests, but a local weed came to the rescue. This plant that plagues farmers and gardeners alike is actually one of the most useful wild plants there is when it comes to textiles. My uncle told stories of kids going up and down ditch banks during the Great Depression collecting milkweed pods to sell the down. And I remember collecting monarch butterflies and yellow swallowtail butterfly caterpillar that feed on it. 

    It grows a seed pod that produces a hypoallergenic fiber fill that can be used in making pillows and stuffing quilts. The fiber is easily collected just before the pods open while the pods are still green. Pods are cracked and the seeds are raked off. You are then left with milkweed down that when allowed to dry makes an excellent fiber fill. There have also been a number of people who have experimented with combining it with other textile such as cotton or wool and then spinning that cotton or wool into yarn. (Sorry but I do not know the ratio used of cotton or wool to milkweed silk ) Unfortunately milkweed down by itself is too brittle for spinning but as I said before it has many unique and useful properties. Native Americans were also known to use the rubbery sap as a chewing gum by rubbing the sap between their fingers to make a rubber ball to chew on. Although I would not recommend it as it tastes awful and may be toxic, the white milky sap is similar to liquid latex. Fibers from the stem would also be used to weave into fishing line or cordage which was then used for making other things.

Drought and late in season, liberty pond

    It should be noted : before harvesting you should make sure that the milkweed has not been sprayed with an herbicide. If it smells funny or the leaves are brown then I would stay clear of these plants. The plants are readily found along ditch banks and ponds. And make sure you remove all the seeds, because if the seeds get wet, they will sprout.

Silky and soft to the touch

To me it is a mystery as to why this plant has not yet been commercialized, as it outperforms goose down. It is more breathable, more durable,and warmer than goose down. It also uses less water when compared to similar fiber crops. So if you’re looking for an inexpensive fiber fill this may make a

good alternative.

The green milkweed pods in the background of this photo are what you're looking to harvest just before they open 

Note green milkweed pods in background

milkweed at liberty pond

 

These beetles also make milkweed their home.

The fire and gem beetles are harmless and may be a good indicator that the plant has not been sprayed with herbicide or pesticide.

Do you need a plastic washer for your craft project or whirligig?

Washers for whirligigs and crafting.

FOR SAFETY REASONS NEVER USE THESE WASHERS TO REPLACE PARTS ON COMMERCIAL PRODUCTS. 

Always use the manufacturer's recommended replacement parts.

    Nylon washers are not very cheap, but I have found an alternative that cost next to nothing, helps the environment and works almost as well. 

    One of the things that I do on a yearly basis is to do preventative maintenance on my whirligigs and weathervane's. With all the moving parts and high winds, there is a lot of wear and tear on these mechanical wonders. What I found out is metal on wood wears out the most, so I use a lot of plastic or nylon washers. Although washers are not the most expensive part to a whirligig, they can cut into your profits.

  I couldn't help, but share this money-saving and environmentally friendly up_cycling of plastic jugs. As for the patterns, I simply invested in an assortment of metal washers to use as a template for the various size washers that I use in my whirligigs. After all for a couple of bucks worth of cheap metal washers, I now have a set of templates that are worth the investment and will never wear out. I could've very easily used a compass to draw the circles, but I wanted something that was more consistent with actual washers.

    
(Be sure to use the appropriate safety goggles and other safety equipment when using rotary tools)

    I have found almond milk jugs and other opaque or heavier jugs seem to make the better washers. Anyhow, using a metal washer as my template and a black marker to trace around the metal washer, I create my patterns. Usually, I take the time to make several hundred at a time, so I have washers on hand for later. Then I simply rough cut them using heavy-duty utility scissors, dollar store kitchen scissors or a Dremel with a fine tip rotary cutting blade. (An X-Acto knife on a cutting board will also work as well.) I then finish the washer by sanding the edges or dragging a knife blade crossways against the grain to remove any ragged edges. A Dremel with an abrasive bit also works very well.

For those of you who like to do things the hard way I have included the following photo as a pattern.

Now keep in mind these washers will not necessarily take the place of a heavy-duty nylon washer and will most likely biodegrade over time if exposed to sunlight.

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Bottlecap refrigerator magnets

Quick and easy Bottlecap refrigerator magnets 

So for this project you will need an assortment of bottle caps from either microbrews or smallbatch soda pop. Preferably selecting bottle caps with interesting designs. You will also need a hot glue gun, magnets that will fit inside the bottlecap, and something to use as a spacer such as a piece of Styrofoam, sliced wood dowel or piece of plastic.

 Place your bottle caps upside down on the work surface as shown in the photos below. Hot glue your spacer inside the bottlecap. Make sure your spacer sit evenly with the edge of the bottlecap in thickness. If you do not have a spacer fill the bottlecap with hot glue and let cool. The reason for letting the glue cool is that if you place the magnet on the hot glue while it is still hot the magnet will sink out of sight.

You will want the magnet to set above the edge of the bottlecap so if the bottlecap magnet gets moved it is less likely to scratch the refrigerator. If you're concerned about scratching the refrigerator apply a small bead of hot glue around the sharp edges. Another option is to buy a cookie sheet from the dollar store and use it to display your magnets on.

 Once the glue has cooled the magnet is finished and ready to use or give as a gift.

The following is a short video on how to make the magnets.

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Vintage Suitcase into craft or activity box

   Setting up at a craft show can be a pain, carrying boxes and totes can be cumbersome and sometimes hard to manage. And then there are times we just simply want a convenient place to carry our crafts when we are on the go. Or maybe we want a special place to put children's activities when they come to visit.
    One of my favorite haunts are yard sales and flea markets. I am constantly finding items to be upcycled, or restored into something new and wondrous. On one such trip I came across a couple of vintage suitcases that were in very poor condition. Although I may have restored them to their original condition I had something less expensive and much better in mind. Going to a craft show with a couple of suitcases seemed much easier than carrying several totes.

I started by painting the outside of the suitcase with a quality exterior house paint. This would help hide any blemishes and give a good protective coating to the outside of the suitcase. Once I had a good protective coating on the outside, I began decorating. First by using one of my favorite stencils to stencil a favorite slogan on the top of the suitcase. This personalize the suitcase and gave it more character. Later I would paint the brass fittings with a nice nail polish to protect them and to make them stand out.

    The inside of the suitcase was in pretty bad shape, with the original felt extremely well-worn and in some places holes. The only option here was to replace it with new felt, which I got at the local fabric store. Using a spray adhesive I cut and placed new felt over the top of the old felt. Once the new felt was in place I tack down the edges with hot glue. I hid this seems by brushing the edges of the seams with a stiff toothbrush.

     I continue to add embellishments from time to time, such as these butterfly stickers. Decorating the suitcases is a matter of using your imagination. One could use a theme such as Alice in Wonderland or use a vintage theme such as travel stickers or decoupage old newsprint or even sheet music. The uses for these suitcases are many, such as costumes and activities for kids or just plain storage for your arts and crafts projects and tools. The possibilities are limitless and should you ever become bored with what you have created it is simply a matter of putting on a new coat of paint and changing the style.

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3-D pen Costume Masks

3D pen Halloween or Mardi Gras mask

    As I have said before the only real disadvantage of the 3-D pen is its precision, but it makes up for that in its versatility and scalability. Take for instance creating costumes or costume accessories. The pen is not limited by a print table size. I can create a mask or wardrobe accessory of any size. To offset its accuracy I use a form such as a cardboard mask in the photograph below.

The mask can be found in just about any craft or costume store. It is designed as a blank mask to be decorated but I have found that it works much better as a form. It is not plastic but pressed paper or cardboard which makes it perfect because it is heat resistant. The extruded plastic will stick to the paper which helps your work from moving around uncontrollably. The plastic mask I have found are usually far too thin and would melt. 

   

Using various artisan hash designs like those that you would use in sketching or drawings work very well for the 3-D pen. Here I have used circles for the bottom half and ?'s for the upper half. You may want to practice or try out different designs on paper with a pencil first. Practice making the same shapes until you are consistent with the size and shape you want. Keep in mind that the 3D pens work very similar to a welder on a micro scale. Practice using the pen forward and backwards or a back-and-forth motion when you are extruding filament. Using the pen in different directions will give you different thicknesses in the plastic that is extruded. Also keep in mind that as you are working, you need to periodically lift the mask off of its form using a artisan palette knife, painting knife spatula or thin flat blade screwdriver. The plastic will have a tendency to stick to the mask which is a good thing as it will keep your work in place, but if you wait until you are completed, your project will be extremely difficult to remove from the mask without breaking it. And if you should break any part of the mask just remember that can weld it back together with the 3-D pen. Be sure and save your blank form for repairs or modifications should you need to make changes at a later date.
    Once you have completed your mask you can now sand and paint it a different color or add any embellishments, such as beads jewels etc. I use embroidery floss or ribbon to hold the mask on, as this gives it a Victorian style or feel. This looks more professional and will fetch a higher price if it doesn't look like a kids toy with an elastic band.
It should be noted that these masks can be modified and updated at a later time. Being able to change or modify what you create is one of the things that appeals me, not to mention being able to make repairs to anything that is damaged. What this amounts to is a costume design that will not only last a long time but a design that you will never get bored with.

Modified and updated mask with added eyelashes and flower.

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3D Pen Holiday Ornaments

  

Using a 3-D pen with a tennis ball used as a form

   One of the big disadvantages of a 3-D pen is the lack of precision. Unlike a 3-D printer the 3-D pen relies not on a computer but on how skilled you are with your hands. However you can compensate on some things by using a form rather than just creating freehand. Here I am using a tennis ball as a form to create a Christmas ornament, but realize that any ball that can withstand the heat from the pen can be used. And any size ball can be used to create even more than just ornaments, such as using a basketball to create a lampshade. You may wish to cover your ball with masking tape or some other material so the plastic does not melt into the ball. I'm using the tennis ball basically because that is what I have handy and the plastic adheres enough to the ball to make it easy to control. The disadvantage of using a tennis ball is all the small fibers that the plastic adheres to. This can make removing the finished ornament rather difficult. The trick I use to overcome this is the use of a old painter's palette knife. Using the knife as I work, I periodically carefully lift the plastic off of the tennis ball. A thin blade screwdriver could also be used in the same manner. Just be sure to lift the plastic as you work rather than trying to do it all at once at the end. If you try to wait until the end, it becomes extremely difficult to lift the plastic without breaking it.





    Once you have removed your ornament you then can began to remove the fine hairs with a lighter or hot knife. Be sure and move quickly so as not to melt the plastic ornament you're working on. Most of the ornaments that I create are shaped similar to a half finished death Star. If you wish to create a full sphere, you need to create two halves and then weld them together after you have removed them from the tennis ball form. One trick I use is to create the ornament using the lines on the tennis ball, rather than a straight half circle. This also helps hide any seem that is created when I weld the two halves together, as it is not a straight line.

     So here we have our finished ornament and all that is left to do is to add a bit of thread or ribbon to hang it by. We can also add lace, beads, crystals or other decorations to the ornament as well as sand and paint the ornament as needed. The type of artwork you use is up to you and I have personally created ornaments for all the seasons, not just Christmas. So have fun and enjoy creating a little bit of artwork with your 3-D pen.

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Custom decorated keys

    So there has been many a time I've gone into the hardware store to get a new key. And there on some rack you see displayed decorative keys. You think to yourself "How nice it would be to tell the difference between the different keys on your keychain." But when you look at the price of a custom key you find sticker shock, or you find that your key does not come in custom designs. So here's an idea on how to decorate your own keys so you can tell the difference between your house key, your car keys or whatever.

(1)  First you want to roughen up the surface of the area that you're going to paint. (Do not sand or roughen the part that goes into lock, as you may change the shape of your key. As a result, the key may not work. ) You can use emery cloth or the tip of a screwdriver. The reason for ruffing up the surfaces is so that the paint will stick better.

     A Dremel with an abrasive tip works best.

(2)  Find some cheap nail polish to use as your paint. Dollar stores are a good source for this. I have found that nail polish actually works better than most paints and comes in a much larger variety of colors including metallic and glitter.

(3)  Once you have your colors picked out simply layer your design on the key. With some nail polish it is possible to get a stained-glass or enamel effect.

(Note; The brush that comes with the nail polish is big and bulky and may make getting fine detail difficult to impossible.) Use a fine tip paint brush to get detail. Just be sure to clean your brush after with nail polish remover.

(4) Once you have your key painted be sure and let it thoroughly dry. Preferably letting the key dry overnight. Then simply repeat the process on the other side of the key, to get both sides.

There you have it, a custom miniature piece of art on a key.  So go out and try different things and let us know how your artwork turned out. Be creative and inspire the world!

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DIY book marks plastic, wood, tile, metal ect.

 To make your own bookmarks start with a semi-transparent milk jug or water jug. Cut out a large flat plastic piece from your plastic jug and then lay the plastic over the following patterns and trace them out. Once you have your pattern traced, simply cut it out either using an X-Acto knife or a pair of utility scissors, which can be purchased at most dollar stores. Be sure and use a cutting board if you are using an X-Acto knife. Once you have your outside pattern cut out you have the option to use the X-Acto knife to cut out the designs or you may wish to simply paint the designs.
    If you're going to paint your designs on plastic, it is recommended that you use either nail polish or plastic model paint. If you have a problem getting your paint to adhere to the plastic, you may wish to use a little bit of sandpaper or a file to rough up the surface you are painting.
    Stickers or plastic gemstones with adhesive are also an option that can be used to decorate your bookmark but keep in mind that the bookmark needs to fit in between the pages of a book or magazine.
    You can also add a tassel made out of embroidery floss or ribbon by using a paper punch or leather punch to punch a hole at the top of the bookmark.
    Once you have your plastic bookmark cut out. you can either use it as is or as a template or pattern to make your bookmarks out of other materials such as wood, laminate, photographs, metal or any other suitable material.

The above pattern is designed to be printed out on a 8 1/2" X 11 standard paper in landscape mode. The bookmarks are 5 1/2" tall and 1 1/2" wide, but you can print what ever size you want. 

Please keep in mind that the patterns are copyrighted and intended for only your personal use or small-scale production. Any production over 1000 requires a 10% royalty be paid to Nevada crafter.com all foreign entities are required to pay a 15% royalty or negotiate terms with Nevada crafter.com

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Parts bin and scoop made from plastic jug.

Plastic jugs can easily be recycled or up-cycled into usable products. This plastic jug was an almond milk jug. Orange juice also comes in this type of jug. The line drawn on the jug is where you make your cut. The lines can be adjusted to meet your needs. Each jug depending on its shape may determine where you cut your plastic and it is more of a judgment call than an exact science.

 A dremel saw blade( or any Rotary tool with micro saw blade) such as this works easily and quickly to complete the job. Be sure and use all safety equipment such as goggles and gloves if necessary. Utility scissors may also be used or a very good box knife used with caution.

Once your cut is complete your project is essentially done. The half on the right becomes a feed scoop, or string dispenser and the half on the left can be used as a parts bin that can be either stacked or mounted on the wall.

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How to make an I.Q. rock.

I.Q. Rock

This is a simple project that even as a kid I used to make money at. It makes a great practical joke and quite entertaining.

For this project you will need:

1. A rock (preferably flat )or other object that has four sides.
2. Paint  (The color you choose is up to you. I chose black and white because it's easy to read. Also use an exterior paint if you plan to leave these outside.)
3. A wide paintbrush to cover large surfaces (a half inch or one inch brush will do.)
4. A fine paintbrush with a good point to do your lettering
5. old newspapers to work on. ( I use baking cooling racks over a large aluminum pan. These can be had at dollar stores or keep a lookout at yard sales.)

 Okay once you have your rock and your paint give your object (rock) a good coat of paint on all sides. This may require you to paint one side at a time and letting each coat of paint dry thoroughly. Once you have a nice background for your lettering your ready to start putting your words on your stone. On the top write the words turn-over and on the opposite side (bottom) write turn-over.

  In small letters on one edge write I.Q. Make the lettering large enough to read but small enough not to be noticed.

On the opposite edge write the word TEST and once again make your lettering as small as you can but still readable. At this point if you'd like you can add little border flowers, leafs or some type of crosshatch to frame your words.

Once your work is completely dry it is ready to place in an inconspicuous but noticeable place. Such as a rock garden or someone's desk and then sit back and watch the fun. Most people will pick up the rock and read it, turn it over several times before realizing it's a joke.

At craft shows I uses to get 25 or 50 cents but later I learned I could get as much as $5 if I put the rock in a gift box with a joke book or printed a rating sticker on the inside lid.

The rating sticker went something like this. "Turn me once your I.Q. is good turn me twice you're not looking so good, turn me thrice and you need to go back to school, turn me a fourth time and there is no hope for you." So have fun making your IQ rocks and remember to check out http://www.nevadacrafter.com/

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Put a chalkboard on your clay pots.

This is a simple crafters garden project. 

 There has been many a time when I found myself trying to figure out what was growing in the pot that I planted. Tags and plant labels get lost, popsicle sticks get moldy and can't be read and buying plant labels can be quite expensive.
  So I bought a chalk paint that I found in a dollar store. Chalk paint can be found at most hardware stores or try ordering it online. I painted the upper lip of the clay pot on the outside only with the chalk paint and let it thoroughly dry. As I did not want to interfere with how the clay pot works I only painted what I needed to. Then using a chalk marker or a piece of chalk I labeled and decorated the outside of the clay pot rim. You can also use a stencil to paint leaf shaped label areas or other designs, just use your imagination. But remember not to paint the inside of the pot and leave the majority of the outside unpainted as well. One of the advantages to using the clay pot is that the clay helps distribute and wick away excess moisture.

What you will need for this project:

1. clay pots
2. chalkboard paint
3. a good paintbrush
4. a chalk marker or piece of chalk
5. optional: stencils of favorite shapes or designs. This is used instead of just painting the rim. Note: be sure and use a design that is large enough to write on.

So there you have a simple craft idea that would make a great gift or a great item to sell at a crafters market.

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Paintbrush cleaning and storage jar

    Often we are throwing out and replacing paintbrushes that were left to sit in the bottom of a jar. This flares and ruins the brush and if left long enough dried out, brittle and useless. This can be expensive, time-consuming and just a plain waste.  But here is a jar that will keep your paintbrushes like new. It is a simple and easy DIY to make with found materials. And can be sold at arts and craft shows for several dollars.

 The jar stays sealed and suspends paintbrushes off the bottom of the jar. Liquids can be added to the jar for cleaning the brushes. The jar is airtight and thus maintains a plasticity of the bristles.

The lid consists of a mason jar ring, a mason jar lid with a hole cut in it and a piece of rubber cut from a tire innertube. Cut the innertube to the same size as the mason jar lid and place it on top of the mason jar lid when assembling. Punch several small holes in the rubber innertube, preferably with a leather punch. Make the diameter of the holes slightly smaller than the handle of the brushes being used. (This is to keep an airtight fit around the handle of the paintbrush and to help hold the brush in place when it is being suspended off the bottom of the jar. )It is important that you use some type of hole punch to keep the holes from splitting and allowing air in the jar.

I use a glass jar and metal lids because the paints and solvents I use would dissolve any other type of container. But if you're only using water-based paints then a plastic jar or cup could be used.

To add paintbrushes to the jar simply push the handle of the paint brush up through the bottom of the lid and through the holes in the rubber seal that you have made. Adjust the brush so that the brush is not sitting on the bottom of the jar and there you have it. The perfect paint brush cleaning and storage jar.

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